Reconnaissance Trip through Northern Tanzania
September 30, 2011

In June 2011 four lone musketeers began a journey through the northern Tanzanian safari route, ready to be awed by the natural splendour and abundance of game the region has to offer! Musketeers we were not, but awed we were as we began our journey from Arusha through Tarangire, Manyara, Ngorongoro and finally the Serengeti.

We started our safari with a two hour drive from Arusha town which led us to the gate of Tarangire National Park, a park named after a river that snakes its way right through the park. Upon paying our fees and entering the park we were immediately greeted by large herds of bull elephants, one of the predominant features of this amazing park. Tarangire is unique in the northern Tanzania safari route in that it offers resident wildlife an abundance of water all year round! Although we arrived following what was described to us as one of the driest of many years, the river was still flowing, albeit mildly and the swamps and watering holes were alive with wildlife and birds.

Having visited a number of camps in the park and come across hundreds of bull elephants and magical baobab trees, we began to make our way to our final resting point for the day, Oliver’s Camp, located in the remote southern regions of the park. Oliver’s is an authentic safari lover’s paradise, topped up with unexpected little luxuries. Our tents lay nestled in the bush, providing plenty of comfort and privacy. Following a wonderful dinner with our hosts Ken, Michelle and Marcus, we were offered some sumptuous port wine and French cheese, just in case we weren’t stunned enough by the excellent service and experience of our hosts. That night we went to sleep with the screeching laugh of hyenas and the distant roar of lions in the background.

The next morning we awoke early to undertake one of the highlight safari activities offered by Oliver’s, a guided walking safari. The camps expert walking guide Marcus had a highly refreshing perspective on the wild and offered us a beautiful walk albeit without any major wildlife encounters.

It was then time to leave, albeit against our soul’s desire, we boarded our land cruiser to make the short journey out of the park and onwards to our next destination. A few meters outside of the camp we came across the amazing yet rather rare sight of a black mamba fiercely facing our Kibo Guides vehicle with intent to kill in his eyes! The mamba had raised its body to the size of a human and we knew that had we not been inside this 2-ton heavyweight 4WD we would have probably and literally pissed our pants with fear!

Following the mamba experience we proceeded to make the short journey to our next destination, a game ranch situated in-between Manyara and Tarangire called Manyara Ranch. Here we were met by Manyara Ranch’s knowledgeable and energetic young camp managers Chris and Joanna, who immediately charmed us with their youthful exuberance! Following a quick lunch, Jo took us to see the horses which they offer horseback safaris on for experienced riders. We then returned to camp to begin preparations for our evening and night time game drive. With Joanna as our driver, we set off following dirt tracks as well as heading off-road to search for all the game we could find. The ranch proved to be abundant in game, particularly elephants, which enjoy drinking from one of the many water holes spread out across the ranch. We also came across plenty of Zebra, Buffalo, Wildebeest, Giraffes and a variety of antelope.

Having spent one magnificent evening at Manyara Ranch and again feeling like we were going against our natural instincts by continuing the trip rather than spending the rest of the week at Manyara Ranch, we made the 2 hour drive to Lake Manyara. Once again we were accosted by a Black Mamba, this time a baby one greeted us right by the entrance to the park, next to the ranger’s quarters. As we drove towards Lake Manyara Tree Lodge, an &Beyond camp at the far side of the park, we drove through the enchanting forests of Manyara which seemed to be swarming with butterflies!

Lake Manyara Tree Lodge is located in the midst of the enchanting forest in an area that seemed to have been taken out of the Jungle Book! Walking through the dense forest in Manyara National Park after having visited one of the fabulous stilted rooms at Lake Manyara Tree Lodge, we suddenly came across a large bull elephant grassing not more than 30 meters away from us. Having smelt the musky scent of fear and excitement in us, the ellie began flapping its large ears and suddenly took three quick steps towards us, ending up no more than 15 meters away. With our courage having exhausted its ability to continue looking at this magnificent beast we did what every guide will tell you not to do: RAN FOR OUR LIVES!! With so much fear, I’m pretty sure some of us had hatched rapid plans of tripping our colleagues and leaving them behind to save themselves, although in the spirit of things I shall not mention any names...

After our brief ellie encounter we continued our journey westwards to Ngorongoro and finally to the Serengeti! The Serengeti was a sight to behold! Although having spent my whole childhood in Africa and having travelled to most parks in Kenya as well as some in Tanzania, I had never set foot in this spectacular place. One of the first things that comes to mind when describing the Serengeti is the great biodiversity the area has to offer! From the dusty south to the stunning rock formations of the Moru Kopjes and the vast grass plains of the central Serengeti, the Serengeti is filled with wildlife and stunning scenery!

Having spent several days on the road, we left the Serengeti with battered backs and soar necks but with our souls refreshed by the stunning beauty this part of our world has to offer. All in all we had an amazing experience and left with fond memories and an eagerness to return to the wild!

By Samuel Nordberg,
Travel Consultant, Enchanting-Africa

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